Ensenada has always been Tijuana’s cooler, hotter but more elegant and down-to-earth cousin. A seaside town with a vibrant port set in the magnificent Todos Santos Bay, the collapse of the tourism economy hit Ensenada hard. But thanks to the energy and passion of a small group of vintners, chefs and restauranteers, Ensenada is back –in a big way.

For sure the inspiring allure of the Adobe Guadalupe Winery and the wineries of the Guadalupe Valley has had a positive impact on the restaurant scene in Ensenada. Restaurants like Kalifa in the Viento seaside complex between San Miguel and the port are also destinations along with Boules at San Miguel. And for a post dinner coffee and desert check out Luis Arriagas art-filled cafe, Cafe Arabica at #1010 Second Street, just off downtown.

Last week I had the pleasure of eating an amazing lunch–one of the best seafood meals I’ve ever eaten in Baja at the amazingly down-to-earth and unpretentious Muelle 3 located on Ensenada’s malecon.

Owner David Martinez has put together a simple menu that is all about serving simple, fresh, and incredibly tasty seafood.

Calamar frito. Very tasty!

Our WiLDCOAST group sampled the menu starting with clam chowder, then moving on to fish and clam ceviche, mussels and frites, plates of sashimi, and then squid and octopus risotto. It was all fantastically fresh and delicious.

The best ceviche I've ever eaten. Photo: Lenise Andrade

Check it out at: Blvd. Teniente Azueta 187 (sobre el Malecon), Ensenada: 646.174.0318, 646.151.9292

David Martinez (left) of Muelle 3.

Luis Arriaga, the delightful owner of Cafe Arabica.

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